The Complete Guide to
Attracting & Feeding
Bluebirds
Master everything about Eastern, Western, and Mountain Bluebirds — from mealworm feeding science to nest box specifications to the historic Bluebird Trail movement. 25 years of professional bluebird conservation experience in one guide.
📖 What's Inside
Meet All Three Bluebird Species
Three gems of blue — each with unique beauty and range
North America is blessed with three bluebird species — all members of the thrush family (Turdidae), all cavity nesters, and all in need of human-provided nest boxes to thrive. Their comeback from near-catastrophic population decline in the mid-20th century is one of conservation's greatest success stories — and you can be part of it.
Eastern Bluebird
Sialia sialisEast of Rockies · Year-round in South- ▸ Male: vivid royal blue back, wings & tail with warm rust-orange breast and white belly
- ▸ Female: grayer blue with softer orange breast — understated and elegant
- ▸ Round-headed, plump body; short bill; upright perching posture on fence posts
- ▸ The most common and widespread bluebird — the species that sparked the nest box movement
Western Bluebird
Sialia mexicanaWestern U.S. & Mexico · Partial migrant- ▸ Male: deep blue head, throat & back — blue extends onto throat (Eastern's throat is orange)
- ▸ Rust-orange breast with blue patches on sides of breast — a key difference from Eastern
- ▸ Female: grayish-blue with paler orange breast; more muted than Eastern female
- ▸ Found in open woodlands, pine forests, and suburban areas of the West
Mountain Bluebird
Sialia currucoidesWestern Mountains · Highly migratory- ▸ Male: entirely sky-blue — head, back, wings, tail, AND breast. No orange. Stunning.
- ▸ Pale belly fading to white; the bluest bird in North America
- ▸ Female: mostly gray with blue wings and tail; paler overall than other bluebird females
- ▸ Hovers while hunting insects — unique among bluebirds. Found in open mountain meadows.
Quick ID Cheat Sheet 🐦
Eastern: Blue back + orange breast + white belly. Blue stops at the back of the head. Western: Blue extends onto the throat (no orange throat) + rust breast with blue patches on sides. Mountain: All blue — no orange anywhere on the male. If you're east of the Rockies = Eastern. Pacific states = Western. Mountain meadows above 5,000 ft = Mountain. Range is your best first clue.
Mealworm Feeding: Live vs. Dried
The definitive comparison — when each type wins and why
Mealworms are the #1 bluebird feeder food. Nothing else comes close to their effectiveness at attracting and retaining bluebird pairs. But the live vs. dried debate rages in every bluebird forum. After 25 years and thousands of feeding observations, here's my definitive comparison.
🟢 Live Mealworms
| Attraction | 10/10 — Bluebirds go absolutely wild for live mealworms. The wiggling movement triggers their prey instinct. The gold standard. |
| Nutrition | Higher moisture content (~62% water), more bioavailable protein. Better for nestlings and dehydrated migrants. |
| Acceptance | 100% acceptance rate — even bluebirds that have never seen a feeder accept live mealworms within minutes. |
| Cost | $8–$15 per 1,000. More expensive but worth it during critical periods (nesting, migration). |
| Storage | Refrigerate at 40–45°F in bran. Last 2–4 weeks. They're alive — treat them like a pet until feeding time. |
| Best For | Initial attraction, nesting season, fledgling feeding, migration support. |
🟤 Dried Mealworms
| Attraction | 6/10 — Some bluebirds accept readily; others take days or weeks to try. No movement = less trigger. First-timers often ignore them initially. |
| Nutrition | Higher protein by weight (~53% protein vs. ~20% for live) but zero moisture. Must be rehydrated or offered with water source nearby. |
| Acceptance | ~70% acceptance rate. Soaking in warm water for 10 minutes dramatically improves acceptance. Mix with live worms to "train" bluebirds. |
| Cost | $20–$30 per 5 lb bag (~10,000 worms). Far cheaper per worm. Bulk buying reduces cost further. |
| Storage | Room temperature in sealed container. Shelf life: 6–12 months. No refrigeration needed. Extremely convenient. |
| Best For | Daily supplemental feeding, winter maintenance, budget-conscious year-round feeding. |
My Recommended Strategy: The Hybrid Approach 💡
Use live mealworms for the critical windows (spring arrival, nesting, fledgling training) and dried mealworms for daily maintenance feeding. To train bluebirds to accept dried worms: mix 70% live / 30% dried in the same dish. Over 2 weeks, gradually increase the dried ratio. By the end, most bluebirds accept 100% dried happily. Pro tip: Rehydrate dried mealworms in warm water for 10 minutes before serving — this dramatically increases acceptance and provides crucial moisture, especially in hot weather.
Mealworm Quantity Guidelines
How many to offer — and the critical danger of overfeeding
This is where most well-intentioned bluebirders get into trouble. More is not always better. Overfeeding mealworms can cause dependency, nutritional imbalance, and even calcium deficiency in nestlings. Here are my field-tested quantity guidelines.
Pre-Nesting Pair
15–25/dayEstablishing territory. Offer in 2 servings — dawn and late afternoon. Enough to attract, not enough to create dependency.
Incubation Period
20–30/dayFemale needs extra energy while sitting. Male brings food. Offer mostly at dawn when she's hungriest.
Nestling Period
50–100/dayPeak demand — both parents feeding ravenous chicks. Split into 3–4 servings spaced through the day. This is where live worms matter most.
Post-Fledging
30–50/dayFledglings learn to visit feeder. Gradually reduce over 2 weeks to encourage natural foraging independence.
The Calcium Crisis — A Critical Warning ⚠️
⚠️ Mealworms have a terrible calcium-to-phosphorus ratio (~1:7 instead of the ideal 2:1). Nestlings fed exclusively on mealworms can develop metabolic bone disease — weak, rubbery legs that prevent normal development. The fix is simple: dust mealworms lightly with calcium powder (reptile calcium supplement, available at pet stores) before offering, especially during nesting season. Or better yet: limit mealworms to no more than 30% of the nestlings' diet. Bluebirds naturally supplement with wild insects, spiders, and caterpillars — which have proper calcium ratios. Mealworms should enhance, not replace, natural foraging.
Bluebird-Specific Feeders
The entrance hole trick that keeps competitors out
Regular open feeders attract every bird in the neighborhood — including starlings, jays, and sparrows who'll devour your expensive mealworms in seconds. Bluebird-specific feeders use entrance hole restrictions (1.5" diameter) that allow bluebirds in but exclude larger competitors. This single design feature transforms mealworm feeding from frustrating to magical.
Enclosed Mealworm FeederBox with 1.5" entrance holes
A box or cage with 1.5-inch round entrance holes on the sides. Bluebirds enter, eat, and exit. Starlings, grackles, jays — all too large to fit through. The most effective bluebird-exclusive feeder design.
🔑 Key Feature
1.5-inch entrance holes — the exact size a bluebird can enter but a starling cannot. This is the same principle used in bluebird nest boxes. Some designs use 1.56" oval holes for easier entry.
✅ Pros
- Effectively excludes starlings, jays, grackles, robins
- Mealworms stay contained — no waste
- Weather-protected — mealworms stay alive longer
- Glass sides let you see mealworm level without opening
❌ Cons
- Bluebirds need 1–3 days to learn to enter
- House Sparrows (small enough) can still enter
- Must be cleaned regularly — dark interiors breed bacteria
- Costs more than open feeders ($25–$50)
Cage / Dome FeederWire cage surrounding a dish
A wire cage or dome surrounds an open dish of mealworms. Spacing between wires allows bluebirds through but blocks starlings and larger birds. Sometimes called a "jail feeder."
🔑 Key Feature
1.5-inch wire spacing around a central dish. Bluebirds slip between wires; starlings can't. Some designs have adjustable spacing.
✅ Pros
- Bluebirds learn faster than enclosed boxes (can see food)
- Good airflow — less bacterial growth
- Usually cheaper than enclosed feeders
- Easy to clean
❌ Cons
- Some rain exposure to food dish
- House Sparrows can still enter
- Starlings sometimes reach through to grab worms
Open Dish / PlatformSimple tray — no restrictions
A simple open dish or tray on a pole. Easy for bluebirds to discover and use, but equally easy for every other bird. Works best in areas with low starling/sparrow pressure.
🔑 Key Feature
No entrance restrictions — high visibility makes initial discovery fast. Best for training bluebirds before transitioning to enclosed feeders.
✅ Pros
- Fastest discovery rate — bluebirds find it immediately
- Cheapest option — a ceramic dish on a pole works
- Perfect for initial training before upgrading
❌ Cons
- Starlings, jays, and mockingbirds dominate quickly
- Mealworms disappear in minutes
- Expensive long-term — you're feeding everything
- Rain, wind, and sun exposure degrade food
The "Training Transition" Method 💡
Start with an open dish so bluebirds find the mealworms quickly (1–3 days). Once they're visiting reliably, place the open dish inside an enclosed feeder with the entrance holes visible. Bluebirds are curious and will enter within 1–2 days once they see food inside. You can also tape the holes open temporarily, then gradually reduce the opening. Never switch cold-turkey — the transition takes about a week. Once trained, bluebirds return to enclosed feeders for years.
Complete Bluebird Food Guide
Beyond mealworms — everything bluebirds eat at feeders and in the wild
| Food | Rating | When | How to Serve | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🐛 Live Mealworms | ★★★★★ | Year-round, peak at nesting | Smooth-sided dish (prevents escape) | #1 food. Dust with calcium during nesting. Refrigerate at 40–45°F. |
| 🟤 Dried Mealworms | ★★★★ | Year-round supplemental | Dish or enclosed feeder | Rehydrate in warm water 10 min before serving. Mix with live to train. |
| 🫐 Fresh Berries | ★★★★ | Fall & winter | Platform feeder or plant native shrubs | Blueberries, elderberries, dogwood berries, holly berries. Frozen blueberries work in winter. |
| 🧈 Suet / Suet Nuggets | ★★★½ | Winter | Suet cage or nuggets in dish | Peanut-butter suet nuggets surprisingly popular in cold weather. Not a primary food. |
| 🦗 Waxworms / Crickets | ★★★★ | Nesting season | Dish or enclosed feeder | Higher fat than mealworms. Better calcium ratio. Expensive but excellent for nestlings. |
| 🍇 Raisins (soaked) | ★★★ | Winter | Soaked in warm water, served in dish | Budget option for winter feeding. Must be soaked — dry raisins are too hard. Chopped if possible. |
| 🌻 Sunflower Hearts | ★★ | Winter emergency | Platform feeder | Occasional supplemental food only. Bluebirds are primarily insectivores, not seed eaters. |
Nest Box Specifications
NABS Standard vs. Peterson Design — the two proven blueprints
Not all birdhouses work for bluebirds. In fact, most "decorative" birdhouses sold at garden centers are death traps — wrong dimensions, no ventilation, no drainage, perches that assist predators. Bluebirds need scientifically designed nest boxes. Two designs dominate the bluebird conservation world.
🏗️ The Two Gold-Standard Bluebird Box Designs
Both are proven across millions of nesting cycles — choose based on your situation
NABS Standard Box
North American Bluebird Society| Entrance | 1.5" round hole (Eastern/Western) or 1 9/16" (Mountain) |
| Floor | 5" × 5" interior |
| Depth | 8" from hole to floor |
| Shape | Traditional rectangular box; vertical front |
| Material | ¾" untreated cedar or pine |
| Ventilation | Slots or holes near roof; ⅜" gap under roof |
| Drainage | Four ¼" corner drain holes in floor |
| Opening | Side-opening door for monitoring & cleaning |
| Perch | NO external perch — assists predators & House Sparrows |
| Best For | All three species; most widely used design in bluebird trails nationwide |
Peterson Box
Designed by Dick Peterson| Entrance | 2 3/16" × 1 3/8" oval hole — unique to this design |
| Floor | 4" × 5.5" interior (narrower) |
| Depth | Variable — angled floor slopes toward front |
| Shape | Wedge-shaped — sloped front creates angled interior |
| Material | ¾" untreated cedar preferred |
| Ventilation | Built into design via angled construction; gap at top |
| Drainage | Angled floor drains naturally toward front |
| Opening | Top-opening; entire roof lifts for monitoring |
| Perch | NO external perch — same principle as NABS |
| Best For | Areas with heavy House Sparrow pressure — the oval hole and wedge shape discourage HOSP |
Which Design Should You Choose? 🐦
For most people: the NABS Standard Box. It's proven, widely available (or easy to build), and accepted by all three bluebird species. Choose the Peterson box if you have severe House Sparrow problems — studies show sparrows are less likely to nest in the wedge-shaped interior and oval hole. Both designs are endorsed by the North American Bluebird Society. The critical rule that applies to BOTH: never add an external perch. Bluebirds don't need one (they cling to the entrance easily), and perches give House Sparrows and predators a platform to harass nesting bluebirds.
Nest Boxes to NEVER Use 🚫
- "Decorative" birdhouses from garden stores with wrong dimensions, painted interiors, and perches
- Metal boxes — overheat in summer, killing nestlings
- Boxes without ventilation — internal temps can exceed 120°F
- Boxes without drainage — flooded nests drown chicks
- Boxes with no monitoring door — you MUST be able to open and check the nest weekly
- Boxes with entrance holes larger than 1 9/16" — starlings can enter at 1.6"+
The Bluebird Trail Movement
The grassroots conservation effort that saved a species
By the 1960s, Eastern Bluebird populations had declined by an estimated 90% — decimated by pesticides, habitat loss, and competition from introduced House Sparrows and European Starlings for nesting cavities. The response was one of the most successful citizen-conservation efforts in history: the Bluebird Trail.
A bluebird trail is a series of nest boxes spaced along a route — fence lines, golf courses, parks, or rural roads — monitored regularly by a volunteer. Some trails have 10 boxes; others span hundreds of miles with thousands of boxes. Today, hundreds of thousands of bluebird boxes are maintained across North America, and bluebird populations have recovered dramatically. You can start your own trail.
🗺️ How to Start Your Own Bluebird Trail
Six steps to becoming a bluebird landlord — at any scale
Scout Habitat
Find open areas with low-cut grass and scattered trees — pastures, golf courses, cemeteries, parks, large lawns. Bluebirds need open sightlines to hunt ground insects.
Get Permission
Secure landowner permission for each box location. Most are happy to help. Explain the conservation purpose and your monitoring commitment.
Install Boxes
Mount NABS-standard boxes on poles with predator baffles, 4–6 feet high, facing open meadow. Space boxes 100–300 yards apart. Pair boxes 5–25 feet apart to allow Tree Swallows (reduces competition).
Monitor Weekly
Check each box once per week during nesting season (March–August). Record nest stage, egg count, hatch date, and number of fledglings. See monitoring guide below.
Manage Threats
Remove House Sparrow nests immediately (they are not protected). Install predator guards. Repair damaged boxes. Address ant and blowfly infestations.
Report Data
Submit your nesting data to the Cornell NestWatch program or your state bluebird society. Your records contribute to continental population monitoring and research.
House Sparrow Competition
The #1 enemy of nesting bluebirds — and how to manage them
I need to be direct about this: House Sparrows (HOSP) kill adult bluebirds, destroy eggs, and murder nestlings. They are the single greatest threat to bluebird nest box success. A male House Sparrow will enter a bluebird box, peck the female bluebird to death on her nest, build his own nest on top of her body, and attract a mate. I've seen it happen. It is not pleasant, and it is not rare. If you put up a bluebird box, you are ethically obligated to manage House Sparrow competition. Here's how.
🛡️ House Sparrow Management Strategies
House Sparrows are non-native, invasive, and NOT protected by federal law. Their nests may be legally removed.
✅ Remove HOSP Nests
Check boxes weekly. If you find the messy, domed nest of a House Sparrow (stuffed with grass, feathers, and trash — very different from a bluebird's tidy grass cup), remove it immediately. Every time. Persistence wins — most HOSP give up after 4–6 removals.
✅ Proper Box Placement
Place boxes in open fields, away from buildings, barns, and farmyards. House Sparrows are strongly associated with human structures. A box 200+ yards from buildings has dramatically lower HOSP pressure than one near a house.
✅ Use Paired Boxes
Install two boxes 5–25 feet apart. Tree Swallows (native, protected, welcome) will claim one box, and bluebirds the other. Swallows aggressively defend against HOSP, creating a buffer. This strategy is used on successful trails nationwide.
✅ Try a Peterson Box
The Peterson wedge-shape design with its oval entrance has been shown to be less attractive to House Sparrows. Not foolproof, but reduces HOSP occupation rates by an estimated 30–50% compared to standard boxes.
✅ Sparrow Spooker
A "sparrow spooker" — strips of mylar or fishing line dangling above the entrance — deters HOSP from entering after bluebirds have started nesting. Install AFTER the first bluebird egg is laid (bluebirds tolerate it; sparrows don't).
🚫 Don't "Plug" the Hole
Plugging the entrance hole traps nesting bluebirds or separates parents from nestlings. If HOSP are a problem, remove their nest materials — don't seal the box with birds potentially inside.
🚫 Don't Put Boxes Near Feeders
Seed feeders attract House Sparrows. Place bluebird boxes at least 50 feet from any seed feeder. Mealworm feeders are fine — HOSP aren't attracted to mealworms.
🚫 Don't Give Up
HOSP management is frustrating. But if you can't commit to weekly monitoring and HOSP nest removal, don't put up a bluebird box. An unmonitored box in a HOSP-heavy area becomes a bluebird death trap. This is the hardest truth in bluebird conservation.
How to Tell the Nests Apart ℹ️
- ℹ️ Bluebird nest: Tidy, woven cup of dry grass or pine needles. Neat, compact. Sometimes lined with fine grass or hair. The cup is symmetrical and clean-looking.
- ℹ️ House Sparrow nest: Messy dome of coarse grass, weeds, feathers, string, paper, and trash. Often completely fills the box. Sometimes contains a tunnel entrance. Chaotic compared to a bluebird's nest.
- ℹ️ Tree Swallow nest: Grass cup (like bluebird) but lined with white feathers — often curved upward to partially cover eggs. If you see white feathers, it's a swallow. Welcome them!
Ideal Habitat Requirements
Bluebirds need open spaces — not deep forests
Bluebirds are "open-country" birds. They hunt by scanning the ground from a low perch (fence post, wire, branch) and dropping down to snatch insects. They need short grass, open sightlines, and scattered perching posts. Dense forest, tall grass, or heavily landscaped suburban yards with no open areas are poor bluebird habitat.
Open Meadow / Lawn
The foundation. Mowed or grazed grassland under 4 inches tall. Bluebirds need to see ground insects from their perch. Taller grass hides prey.
Scattered Trees
Isolated trees or woodland edges — not dense forest. Trees provide singing perches, shade, and natural cavity options. Oak, maple, and fruit trees are ideal.
Fence Posts & Wires
Low perches (3–6 ft) for ground-scanning. Fence lines through open areas are classic bluebird habitat. They perch, scan, drop, catch, return.
Water Source
Birdbath with shallow water (1–1.5" deep). Bluebirds bathe frequently. Moving water (dripper/bubbler) dramatically increases attraction.
Berry-Producing Shrubs
Dogwood, holly, sumac, juniper, elderberry, viburnum. Critical for winter food when insects are scarce. Native species preferred.
Minimal Pesticides
Pesticides kill the insects bluebirds eat. A bluebird-friendly yard has healthy insect populations — lawn grubs, caterpillars, beetles, and spiders.
The Ideal Bluebird Property 💡
Picture this: a mowed lawn or meadow of at least ¼ acre, bordered by scattered trees or a woodland edge, with a fence line running through it. A nest box on a baffled pole in the center of the open area, facing the nearest tree. A birdbath with a dripper 30 feet from the box. A few native berry shrubs (dogwood, elderberry) along the property edge. This is bluebird paradise. You don't need a farm — even a large suburban lawn with open areas and nearby trees can support nesting bluebirds. The key is the ratio of open ground to perching opportunities.
Nest Box Monitoring Guide
When to check, what to look for, and when to leave things alone
Regular monitoring is the difference between a successful bluebird box and a death trap. Monitoring allows you to remove House Sparrow nests, detect predator problems, track nesting success, and contribute data to science. Here's the complete monitoring protocol I've used for two decades.
What You'll See
A neat cup of dry grass or pine needles takes shape over 3–10 days. Female does most building. The cup is ~3 inches across, ~2 inches deep. Action: Monitor weekly. If a messy HOSP nest appears, remove it immediately. Note the date nest building begins.
What You'll See
One pale blue egg per day (occasionally white) until clutch is complete — typically 4–5 eggs. Female doesn't begin serious incubation until the last egg is laid. Action: Check weekly. Count eggs. Record date of first and last egg. Install sparrow spooker after first egg. DON'T touch eggs — your scent won't cause abandonment (a myth), but minimize disturbance.
What You'll See
Female sits tightly — she may flush when you open the box or sit motionless. Male brings food. Incubation lasts 12–14 days. Action: Brief weekly checks only. Open the box gently, peek, close. Calculate expected hatch date (14 days after last egg). DON'T check in rain, extreme cold, or after dark.
What You'll See
Tiny, naked, blind chicks with gaping yellow mouths. Growth is explosive — eyes open by day 5, feathers emerge by day 8, chicks look like miniature bluebirds by day 12. Action: Monitor, but DO NOT open the box after day 12–13. Disturbed nestlings near fledging age may jump out prematurely ("premature fledging") and die on the ground. After day 12, observe from a distance only — watch for adult feeding trips.
What You'll See
Box suddenly goes quiet. Young have left — usually all within a few hours of each other, typically in the morning. An empty nest with flattened sides and fecal matter = successful fledge. Action: Celebrate! Then remove the old nest and clean the box. Bluebirds often renest for a second brood (sometimes third). A clean box can be reoccupied within 1–2 weeks.
Season Wrap-Up
Action: Final cleaning. Remove all nesting material. Inspect for damage — loose screws, cracked wood, rust. Repair or replace as needed. Leave boxes in place for winter roosting (bluebirds use cavities for warmth). Submit your season's data to Cornell NestWatch (nestwatch.org) or your state bluebird society. Your data matters for conservation research.
The Day 12 Rule — Critical ⚠️
Never open a nest box after nestlings are 12 days old. At this stage, nestlings are feathered enough to attempt flight but not strong enough to survive outside the box. Opening the door can trigger a panic fledge — and a nestling on the ground at 12 days old has almost zero survival chance. After day 12, monitor from 30+ feet away using binoculars. Watch for adult feeding trips (a sign all is well). If you stop seeing adults visit for 2+ days after expected fledge date, then carefully check the box.
Quick Reference Table
All three species at a glance — bookmark this for field use
| Feature | Eastern Bluebird | Western Bluebird | Mountain Bluebird |
|---|---|---|---|
| Male Color | Blue back + orange breast + white belly | Blue throat + orange breast with blue patches | All sky-blue, no orange |
| Range | East of Rockies; S. Canada to Gulf | Pacific states, SW mountains | Western mountains, 5,000+ ft |
| Migration | Partial; year-round in South | Partial; some elevational migration | Highly migratory; winters in lowlands |
| Entrance Hole | 1.5" round | 1.5" round (or 1 9/16") | 1 9/16" round (slightly larger) |
| Box Height | 4–6 ft on baffled pole | 4–6 ft; can mount on trees in West | 4–6 ft; open meadow facing |
| Clutch Size | 4–5 pale blue eggs | 4–6 pale blue eggs | 5–7 pale blue eggs |
| Incubation | 12–14 days | 13–14 days | 13–14 days |
| Fledging | 16–21 days | 18–21 days | 18–21 days |
| Broods/Year | 2–3 | 2 | 2 |
| Primary Food | Insects, berries in winter | Insects, berries; more berry-dependent | Insects; hovers to catch aerial prey |
| Habitat | Open areas, fence lines, orchards | Open pine/oak woodland, suburbia | Mountain meadows, sagebrush |
Frequently Asked Questions
Answers from 25 years of bluebird conservation
When should I put up a bluebird nest box?
Can I mount the box on a tree?
Will checking the box cause the bluebirds to abandon?
Ants are invading my bluebird box. What do I do?
How far apart should I space nest boxes?
What direction should the entrance face?
I found a dead bluebird in the nest box. What happened?
Your Bluebird Action Plan
25 years of conservation expertise in 10 commitments
The 10 Bluebird Commandments 💡
- Install a NABS-standard or Peterson nest box on a baffled metal pole by February
- Place in open habitat — mowed grass with scattered trees, facing away from prevailing wind
- No external perch on the box — ever. It only helps predators and House Sparrows.
- Monitor weekly during nesting season — record nest stage, egg count, and hatch date
- Remove House Sparrow nests immediately — every time, without exception
- Offer mealworms in a bluebird-specific feeder with 1.5" entrance holes
- Dust mealworms with calcium during nesting season to prevent metabolic bone disease
- Don't open the box after nestlings are 12 days old — observe from 30+ feet with binoculars
- Clean the box between broods and at season's end — bluebirds prefer a fresh start
- Submit your data to Cornell NestWatch — your observations power continental research
💙 Join the Bluebird Conservation Movement
Every nest box you install, every House Sparrow nest you remove, every data point you submit makes a real difference. The bluebird comeback is one of conservation's greatest stories — and you're now part of it.
- ✓Build or buy a NABS-standard nest box
- ✓Install on a baffled pole in open habitat
- ✓Set up a mealworm feeder nearby
- ✓Add a birdbath with a dripper
- ✓Commit to weekly monitoring
- ✓Report your data at nestwatch.org
- ✓Share this guide with another bird lover
The bluebird of happiness isn't just a metaphor — it's a real bird, and it might be looking for a home in your yard right now. 💙
About This Guide
Written from 25 years of active bluebird conservation work, including monitoring 200+ nest boxes across multiple bluebird trails, mentoring dozens of new trail operators, and contributing thousands of nesting records to national databases. Nest box specifications follow North American Bluebird Society (NABS) standards. House Sparrow management protocols align with current NABS and state bluebird society guidelines. Every recommendation has been field-tested across Eastern, Western, and Mountain Bluebird ranges.
Last updated: 2025 · ↑ Back to Top
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